I’m fucking stoked to go pick up my brand shiney used EFI 5.0L in a few days…
toohighpsi.com/BudgetTT/BudgetTT.htm
This guy was running 12s in the 1/4 mile with PVC pipes, duct tape, and a sketchy carb setup. Made it into the 10s with slight improvements, intercooler. All on stock rods, pistons, and bottom end!
Time to put the two Garrett T3s I own to use…
[quote=“rangerwreck”]
Time to put the two Garrett T3s I own to use…[/quote]
Yeah because you have those…
Actually rangerwreck does have to T3 Turbo. and Both still work, Stoked to see this project happen.
He has to T3 Turbo? 
doulble post
Yeah, from Chyrsler 2.2s .43 A/R compressor housings… or something like that. Cost? Zero dollars, haha. Fuel injected 5.0L. Cost? Zero dollars. '92 Tempo daily driver? Zero dollars. Replacement motor for Tempo to make it run? Zero dollars. It’s all about knocking on the doors of strange houses.
I think last year I was looking for a pair of T3s on Ebay, and the auction ended at like 300 bucks or some shit like that for a matched pair. Which isn’t too bad…
Whether or not I get my ass in gear is another question, but I do have the hardware.
Tow Truck to Canadian Tire - $45
Engine Diagnostic Scan - $57.69
41,000Ohm resistor - $1.75
A push from two baffled mechanics, into the parking lot - Free
Quietly starting a “broken” car and squeeling the tires infront of them on their walk back to the bay doors… - Priceless
Somethings are priceless, for everything else there is Mastercard.
Did the resistor fix it? What was wrong?
Yeah… $1.75 for a 41,000Ohm resistor. That’s all I needed. I guess having a new battery is alright, though the $115 it cost coul dhave been better spent…
I posted the link to what the deal was on page 2… but here it is again…
thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml
VATS in my car = a resistor in the key. Sadly, the two flimsy wires that carry the current connect to the bottom of the ignition cylinder and they usually break, or break off. So, even though the key was inserted, the vehicle wasn’t able to verify it was the correct key. So I went to an audio shop and had them use a multimeter to test the resistance of the key, match up a resistor and I bypassed the ignition by inserting the resistor into the VATS connector. Fired right up… Weird thing is I can pull the resistor out and the car keeps runnign aslong as it has alreayd been started.
I permanently soldered it in now, but it’s still on the connector, so I can unplug it and render my car undrivable if I’m ever away or whatever… Kinda slick. I should start a collection of 41,000OHM resitors I guess, incase this one breaks or something.
It’s times like this where the saying, ““Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Virgins Go Willingly”” comes in real handy, though I never thought it would.
I can’t believe you took the time to colour those words.
I can’t believe you don’t SHUT THE HELL UP!
So you’re gunna be on the streets now racing Bill and Tyler eh?..
Me? Race? Who is Bill? The only racing I do is against bottle rockets, and Eso can vouch for me on that one.
Oh, I believe you will be racing me 
The Z24 doesn’t race, it just wins.
You need some picture of your other beasts now… and your two t3’s sitting side by side…
Ever heard of valve stem caps sticking to the threads of the valve stems? I cannot get these things off… Maybe some ass put loc-tite on them or something… Good prank if so, har har har. With pliers, the caps just twist the valve stem to the point where if i turned any harder they’d probably break… Any ideas for solvents / penetrating lube 
or something… tire / rim safe yet worthy of application?!
I’m guessin it’s just these shitty aluminum valve caps I got from WalMart, not loc-tite… but man are they ever stuck.
have you tried holding the base of the valve stems with pliers, and then twisting the cap? vice grips even on the base…
Hmm, that sounds logical… I only have one pair of pliers though. Maybe the leatherman can help me out.