Car won't start... again

I’d lean away from a fuse issue, simply because the problem has been occurring intermittantly.

“Del-Sol WIth B18A naturally aspirated with Boost 312hp @ the Crank… jleaman.ath.cx

I don’t get it… is it naturally aspirated, or boosted?

[quote=“Eso”]“Del-Sol WIth B18A naturally aspirated with Boost 312hp @ the Crank… jleaman.ath.cx

I don’t get it… is it naturally aspirated, or boosted?[/quote]

No boost with a turbo or nos… it means hi pressure from the fuel Injector’s and rail with a proper tuned ecu and better cpu controlled ignition :smiley: With computer controlled timming also.

I still don’t get it… is it forced induction, or isn’t it?

its super vtech power duh

http://portablefrance.com/portables/imagens/modelos/vtech-a600.jpg

It’s more managed

power = more fuel and air mixture… If both are fine tunned to work with the engine the engien will run smoother and better… a stock engine is no where close to a tuned engine for performance…

IO have not decided if i want to drop in a new B18c engine to my car or buy a S10 Like stevie’s old little red one and drop a v6 4.3 into that insted…

Im reserching and soing some thinking first…

Haha, I don’t get it Jason…

Boost means forced induction. That’s shoving more air into the cylinder, which allows you to add more fuel, makign more power.

You are trying to tell us, that you have fine tuned your motor beyond Honda’s abilities, and therefore it’s been “boosted”?

Probably by over richening the mixture below the stoichometirc ratio? Mmm… I bet your O2 and cat loooooves that. I could go short out my ECT sensor and get the same results.

Timing curves? So you’ve advanced it closer to the fine line of detonation? Can you still run 87 ocatane, or does that make pieces of your piston fall out the tailpipe…

And after all this, you put your engine on dyno? And not just a chassis dyno… but you pulled that thing out and got figures at the crank?

Alright, so I was lucky enought o get the car into a shop today… Cambodian Tire gave it a scan and look over. The car runs if they provide it with a fuel source, but still, the starter and the injectors are disabled or something… They gave it an engine scan and the anti-theft codes are popping up… They can’t really do anything else now, or know what to do.

I figure my ignition has worn out, or the key has worn out. The key has an anti-theft chip in it, and without that, the fuel system and starter are disabled. This makes sence, so I’ll try to get a GM factory key cut tomorrow, and if that doesn’ work I’ll need a new ignition I guess… Hopefully that solves the problem.

[quote=“rangerwreck”]Haha, I don’t get it Jason…

Boost means forced induction. That’s shoving more air into the cylinder, which allows you to add more fuel, makign more power.

You are trying to tell us, that you have fine tuned your motor beyond Honda’s abilities, and therefore it’s been “boosted”?

Probably by over richening the mixture below the stoichometirc ratio? Mmm… I bet your O2 and cat loooooves that. I could go short out my ECT sensor and get the same results.

Timing curves? So you’ve advanced it closer to the fine line of detonation? Can you still run 87 ocatane, or does that make pieces of your piston fall out the tailpipe…

And after all this, you put your engine on dyno? And not just a chassis dyno… but you pulled that thing out and got figures at the crank?[/quote]

I ahve no trubo in my car or a supercharger… There is no forced induction.

It is a engine that is fined tuned with bigger injectors and a fuel managment system that controles teh engine at higher rpm’s…

Naturally aspirated means NATURAL ie only gas/air NO BOOST…

i might plann to go boosted engine later on tho.

[quote=“jleaman”] I ahve no trubo in my car or a supercharger… There is no forced induction.

It is a engine that is fined tuned with bigger injectors and a fuel managment system that controles teh engine at higher rpm’s…

Naturally aspirated means NATURAL ie only gas/air NO BOOST…

i might plann to go boosted engine later on tho.[/quote]

Yes we now know that you don’t have boost on that honda motor but in your sig it says “Del-Sol WIth B18A naturally aspirated with Boost 312hp @ the Crank” the should be an “a” in bettween the “with” & “Boost” or “Del-Sol WIth A Tuned B18A naturally aspirated 312hp @ the Crank” to make what you are saying true. Because right now what I read it as you are running boost and N/A at the same time which is impossible.

We know that already…

So the stock system doesn’t control the fuel at higher RPMS? That sucks, cause Fords and Chevs do…

A boosted motor is only fuel and air as well, just the air is at a higher pressure than atmosphere… but yes, we know what naturally aspirated means. We just don’t know why you say your motor is “boosted” if it’s naturally aspirated…

I think by “boosted” you mean, “it has larger than stock injectors, and modified fuel and timing curves”

Yeah, that’s our point right there

Well, it sounds like you’ve basically got an upgraded fuel injection system, which can supply more fuel at higher RPMs, which means that you could be set-up pretty sweetly with a forced induction system.

Is a B16A a V-TEC engine? What kind of cars is it found in?

thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml

[quote=“Eso”]Well, it sounds like you’ve basically got an upgraded fuel injection system, which can supply more fuel at higher RPMs, which means that you could be set-up pretty sweetly with a forced induction system.

Is a B16A a V-TEC engine? What kind of cars is it found in?[/quote]

the b16x’s are found in acura’s lx ls and the next higher model’s…

the are cheap engines… BUT not cheap to rebuild…

Is it a V6? What kind of displacement?

A B16x is 1.8ltr 4cyl capeable of 10k RPM the most ive seen from a 4cyl is 1600hp on a dragg car… but there are a few in van running about 740hp at the wheels.

tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/bseries.html

Here ya go…

Still driving that Honda in the Land of Make-Believe, eh Leaman?

King Friday hates rice.

B16 is a decent motor, but anything beyond 250hp is loads and loads of cash. And that 250 is near redline. The B-series and K-series are notorious for always being rated with more HP than torque.

All of Honda’s motors do not adapt well to any kind of forced induction - I’ve seen dyno results from a tuned S2000 running 8psi, and the block simply cannot hold much more without blowing out. The motor was simply not designed to hold high amounts of boost.

HP figures mean nothing. It’s all about power under the curve, traction, and gearing. I know of some 500HP Chev small-blocks that will make a 1,000+HP Supra look slow. You want a dyno queen? Buy lots of Mother’s polish, print out big scans of the dyno sheets, and park your ride in a car show. You want usable power? Start with an engine that doesn’t sound like a pack of pissed-off bees when you wind it up.

Forged pistons, built bottom-end, new rods… lots and lots of cash. Yeah, they have 1,000hp race cars - but they’re building them with factory cash and specialty shops, not in their backyard.

Any Honda motor is just not a good idea for a “tuner” motor, simply because it is not tuned, nor designed for gobs power. Even the new K20J in the '06 Civic Si won’t hold anything beyond 250hp with simple “bolt-ons”. And again, VTEC only kicks in above 4-5000RPMs. I know - I owned a 7th gen Civic Si and had many many friends who dropped a lot of money into them - only to get into the low 14s in the 1/4 mile.

You can have 400hp at 10,000RPM - it still won’t do you any good if the power under the curve is ziltch right until redline. You can produce any kind of figure you want, but at the end of the day I’ll take my peak torque at 2,200RPMs, thanks. If you want your torque curve to be a vertical line, buy a Honda motor.

Back to tang’s problem; maybe it’s more that one problem? Maybe ECU is acting weird as well electrical probs.